Rong chi tinrêngin ka chei;
Par ze tinrêngin ka cheimawi a,
Nemrâng ka khawng (LH 43).
- Thattinlien Sungte
Kum 1950-60 inkar bawr tung lai khan Hmar trongin hnam hla le hla lenglawng ro tling, puipungnaa khom sak tlak, iemani zat, a hung suok a. Chuonghai laia pakhat chu Thattinlien Sungte phuok Nemrang Puon ti a nih. Chu taka chun ze tum tum neia khawng Hmarhai puon nei zat 23 zet a hril bakah puongkhawngna hmangruo a hril kim dap a. Puon hrang hrang a hrilnaah, Hmarpuon le Thangsuopuon hai hi a hril sa a, chu chu sui chieng ei tum a nih.
Puon tieng le incheina thil hrim hrim hi nuhmei thil deua ka bel hlak lei amani ding, inhnikna ka nei naw bakah ka lo bengkhon ngai naw khop el a. Puon ei hril pahnihai khom hi thuhmun rongah ka lo chei hlak a, sienkhom a lo ni si nawh. A hmasa hi Fimneizo dizain, a pahnina hi Rochunga Pudaite dizain ni-a hril a nih. Ka zuk sui kir tum ngiel khomin kan hung tleirawl suok lai khan Hmar Bielah hieng puonhai kan la hmu ngai nawh niin ka hriet. Ka mitthlaa chieng lo ruoia la châm chuh college chawl changa Rochunga Pudaite hung inzin changin a u Ramlien Pudaite, chuong laia Pherzawl NEIGM Middle School Headmaster inah a tlung hlak a. Hi hi 1949-1954 inkar, Calcutta le Allahabad-a college a kai lai a nih. Ka mitthlaa la cham zing chu puon a sil lai thla a nih. Rong dumpawla triel, entirnan ngotekher ang niin ka hriet. Khang hun lai khan chuh Mizoram tienga inthoka mi neinungin pakhat pahnih an hung lak lut puonlaisen le zakuolaisen chauh naw chuh Hmar Bielah puon rong inlara khawng puon hmu ding a la um nawh.
Tuoltro suok pata inthoka puon chei, entirnan ngotekher le puonbil tawi le insing ‘Hmar-âm’ khawngnaa rong an hmang chu tring (indigo) tuia nam patzai, a dumpawl a nih. Kan in bul huonah khan ka nuin hmuo, hnuoia inzâm chi, hna inno dar el a ching hlak a. A hna chu kan suong a, rong dumpawlin a hung suok a, chu tuia chun pat zai (duong) kan inchie a, a dumpawlin a rong a hung suok a, chu chu ka nu-in Hmar-âm le ngotekher khawngna dingin an hmang hlak. Hmuo hi India ram suok a ni-a chuh khawvel hmun hrang hrangah chi tum tum a um a, powder chi dam, a tui dam, a tlang damin sabon angin an siem a. Misawnari hmingthang William Carey khom khah India rama a hung khan West Bengal-a Indigo Factory-ah thokin rongbawlna a tran a nih. Hi rong hi Levi Strauss-in kum 1873-a ama hming chawi Levi jeans ronga a hung hmang hnung lem chun khawvel a hluo sip tah a nih. Hebraihai Pathien khomin rong dumpawl hi a hnam thlanghai rong dinga a thlang laia mi a ni leiin Israel Sorkar hnam puonzar rong a hung ni pei a, UNO puonzar rong chen khom. Hmar-âm rong khom hi a nih. A rong inthip le dal deu ruok chu a um, dit dan zirin.
Tring chanchin ei zuk zep vak san chu rong chi hrang hrang chekpola châm buoia puon chi hrang hrang tuta ei hmuhai hi kan naupang lai chu thingtlangah hmu ding a la um naw thu hril ka nuom lei a nih. Tu lai chuh ei nghatna tieng phota ei hmu ei sil le bilhai hi tuoltro suok hmu ding a tlawm ta a, nuhmei bi puon nal tak ei hmuhai khom hi mi dang dizain, Vai pat rong hrang hrang ei inchawka inthoka khawng vong a ni tah. Pat rong inlar hmanga mi puon zierang kawpia ei khawng tranna khom, abikin thingtlang tieng lem chuh, kum 1960 hnung tieng a ni deu vong ring a um. Chuong chu ni siin, Zo hnathlak hnam hrang hrang puonzie ei kawpihai chu upa tak le mani hnam bing ta bik anga hril lut tumna a lien. Thosilen hnuoia ngaituona vuong vel besana hmanga ei pansak kawmkar vela Sinlung dap suok pawl le a hmuna kar hnikhat sung chauha hang inzina hung kir nawk hman pawl ei um ang boka phuokfawm thusim le thurachi phuok zung zung thei, Baibula zawlnei khelhlip a hrilhai anga puonzie chi hrang hrang, Zo hnathlak hnam hrang hrangin kum tak tak sunga an hung duong suokhai chu mani hnam bil kutsuok anga hril lut phet nuom ei um hlak leiin, “Kan hnam puon/thuom an mi’n chupui” ti rawl ri dam hriet ding a um rop hlak. Sul khat suok ni si, hnam hrang daia insala puon indelkil ei tum leia thil tlung, sienkhom ei inhnaizie hriltu a nih. Vaihai leh chu thisena inzomna nei lo, chi-hnam hrang daih ei ni leiin an saree ei inchupui ngai naw ang bokin ei puonlaisen mi’n chŭpui ngai naw ni hai.
Eini laia hnam bil zawnga kholbing pawlitiks a hung lut tran dan empirical study neia chik taka ei sui chun Coleman Factor ka hril rop hlak, Arthatzawl Pawlitiks ti-a kum 1986-a thusep ka zieka terminology thar ka hung ser thar khah a nih. Chu thil fe pei chu kum 1946-a pieng Mizo Union phusain a chok tho, Hmar Biel le Cachar phaia cheng Hmarhaiin Greater Mizoram indina Mizo Sorkar siem theina lampui ni-a an hriet leia an lo inruipui, sienkhom India Danpui an hung siem hnunga a hmaa ei umna State senga ei um zing a hung ngai tak leia eini rawi pawlitiks kalhmang hriet naw taluo lunghnura Luseihai mi hlemnaa ngaia mani hnam bing ta dinga nina suolsuok tuma Hmar Mongolian Federation (HMF), Hmar National Congress (HNC) le Hmar National Union (HNU) ti dam a hung suok pei khan hnam bing aiawa ngir thei dinga ngai Hmar Puon le Thangsuo Puon dam hi a hung hring suok tah pei a nih. Hienghai hi hming aiawa noun-a siem a ni pha chun ziek inkop ding a nih: Hmarpuon, Thangsuopuon.
Hmarpuon
Hi puon hi Hmar thil inentir changa Hmar hnam aiawa ngir thei dinga duong a nih. H.L. Daka thruoina hnuoia Hmar Cultural Society (HCS) Troupe-in hnam lam an inentirnaah sorkarin lawmman-ah cheng 500 a pek a. Cheng 400-in Rengkai Road-a hmun an inchawk a, a zatve HSA an rochung a. Cheng 100 chun Hmar hnam puon ding hung duong suok dingin an Treasurer ni lai Fimneizo chu an dande a. Kum 1963 kum bul khan inthlang a um a, Chairman-ah kei, Secretary-ah ka rawi-upa L.Rokung an mi thlang a, Fimneizo khom Treasurer a ni zui pei a. Hmarpuon prawzek el bakah lam pawl chang kip zakawlaisen le hmangruo thil dang dang kan intuo khawm a. Hnam lam chi hrang hrang, a chanchin, thu le hla an insam hlak, an ke pen dan, hma tieng le hnung tieng an intawl dan le sir an sawn dan, hlado an insam dan le an thu insam hai, butukhuonglawm an thaw dan le an hla hai, hranglam, darlam, sesun inchong changa chonlăm an thaw dan le an hla sak hlak hai le thil dang dang, sakhuona leia ei lo hnawmhnawl tah le ei theinghil zo trĕp tah chu a la hrie le hril thei kan hmu taphot kuomah indonin kan khon khawm a. Ngurte lalhaiin hnam lăm tam tak an la hriet leiin trum khat lem chu nunghak-tlangval thlang khawm, cultural troupe-a kan hmang trangkaihai chu an nu le pa phalna lain, kar khat sung top Zatuothang le Darkamlo Faiheng inrawina hnuoiah Ngurte-ah an inkul top a nih. Chun, thil inchik mi le mi poimaw kan hriet taphothai chu an chanchin le an tonhriethai lekhaa hung ziek dingin kan ngen bok a. Hieng hun laia hnam ro kan lak khawm le hlu lut nawk tluka tam hi a hma le a hnung khomin a um tah ngai nawh.
Chuong thil kan khonkhawmhai chu fimkhur takin Chairman le Secretary file-ah kan sie thra a. A bikin lăm chi hrang hrang, ke pên le kut vai dan ding le a bebawm chanchin kimchang Hmar trong le Saptronga ka’n let chu khawla sutin kan sie thra a. Service ka zom hnung le ram puo tienga ka um hnung khomin, kum 18 zet an mi thlak nuom naw leiin ka chel zom a. Fangson poimaw nikhuoah hnam lăm inentirna ding photah Secretary File kol chu an lo haw lawn leiin 1981-a ka hung suok chun tam tak an lo sukhmang tah a. Hi truma inthlang hin Chairman-ah L. Rokung, Secretary-ah Lala Khobung thlang an ni a. Chairman hminga document ka kol, inhmang loa la umhai chu thruoitu tharhai kuomah ka’n hlan a. Aizawl tienga Lala Khobung-in sin a zom hnung khan ei hnam lam a kip a kawia ziekna, rangkachak file hi a umna chin hriet loin a bo a, tu chen hin kan la zong zing a nih. Uong thu loah, kan term sunga ei kalchar thu le hla le hmangruo kan khon khawm bak kha ei sunzom ta naw khom a ni el thei. 1969 Indian Republic Day lawmnaa Manipur State aiawa Hmar Cultural Troupe ei zu thrang khom kha keini hun lai a ni bakah Churachandpur-a Chief Commissioner nuhnung tak Baleshwar Prasad hung truma a tlungna Inspection Bungalow-a ka rawia lam inentira kan hang pawl truma cultural hall bawlna dinga sum kan hni suok, khang laia SDO Cowboy Prongo-in kan hriet loa Lamka football playground bula Cultural Hall bawlnaa a lo her kawi daih a nih. Kan term kan tran hlim khan U Rokung-in Willys Jeep thar a’n chawk a, a hmingah Cultural Jeep kan inbŭk a, chu rongbawlna inzaum taka chun lam pawlhai phur inlonnain kan hmang chul vong a nih. Ama tluka hnam thila tiktlai le thrahnemngai kha tu khom ka la tong ngai nawh.
Upat hnung hin thil inzawt kuol ding hau leiin hril tum tak hril el loin a bebawm tienga ka pet kuol hi trula ka hriet lei a nih. A san chu Hmarpuon hung duong suok dinga Fimneizo dande a ni thu le a mawphurna hlen dinga HCS-in a kûl a tâia a somdawl dan kim inzawt nekin ei hnam thilhai sakhuona leia ei vui liem zo mek, thlăna inthoka kei suok tuma thrang kan lo lak dan thrangtharin an hriet hi poimaw ka ti lei a nih. Hmarpuon prawzek ei hung tran tak tak hun chu 1960 hnung tieng, keini term-a inthok khan a ni tak a, kum sawm hnung, 1970 vel khan chuh Hmar khawvelah chongpu nina nghet takin a hung hluo hman tah bakah sorkar le ei kawl le kienga hnam danghai khomin ei aiawa ngîr a nih ti an inhmai ta nawh. A hung dizain dan le phur suok dan chu 2014 HSA Platinum Jubilee-a chawimawina an inhlan trum khan intarviu a nei a, chu chu tiem dingin ka’n fui.
Thangsuopuon
Ama hril danin, Thangsuopuon dizain-tu chu ama Rochunga Pudaite ngei a ni a, a riruong anga a aitecheuna dinga puona a’n khawngtir hmasa tak chu a sang Lalkhawl a nih. Chu specimen chu an la sie thra chun hmu châk a um khop el. An khuo Phulpui an um laia a khawng a ni chun ieng tik kum am ning a ta? Chuong hun lai chun Hmar Biel le Vangai Tlangah Vai pat rong inlar nuhmeiin puonkhawngnaah an hmang phak tam? An hmang phak tah hai chun khaw lai dawra inthoka an inchawk am ning a ta? Ruonglevaisuo dawra inthoka an inchawk a ni chun a se vela khaw dang hienga Vai pat rong inlar hmanga puon khawng tah hlak an um ve am? Hieng lai hi Vai puon ni lo, tlangmi khawng puon rong inlar bat/sil an um ta hlak hrim hrim am? Joy L.K.Pachuau le Willem van Schendel buotsai THE CAMERA AS WITNESS: A Social History of Mizoram, Northeast (2015), thlalak hmanga Mizoram chanchin hrilna, lekhabu dangdai le bel tlaka chun British hai hunga inthoka Mizoramin State a hmu chena mi thlalak ei en chun lal ropui china ngai lalhai, lal thuom inbel phakhai chauh naw chun tu khomin rong inlara khawng thuom hmang hmu ding an um nawh. Naga tieng khom rong inlara khawng inbel phak chu lal ropuia ngaihai chauh an lo nih.
Zawna dang indon fie lo thei lo chuh, mi huoisen, pasalthra le râlhrât chawimawina dinga khawvel hnam tinin an hmang tlanglawn chu lukawm (headgear), tonlairang, lukhim le ringa or chi amanih dara bat amanih bel chi hrang hrang a ni hlak a, puon ruok chu a ni ngai nawh. Lalin a chawimawi nuom threnkhat chu lalthuom an inhaktir a, lallukhum an inkhumtir bok hlak. Lal Zarzia khomin Mordekai a chawimawi trumin a thaw a nih (Esther 7:8). Thangsuo chawimawina dinga a hrana puon buotsai chu khawvela hin a thaw an vang el thei. Pasalthra chawimawina dinga luchei an siema hmangruo an hmanghai hi thil vâng, hmu le nei el thei lo a ni tei hlak. Tu lai hnai ela National Institute of Fashion Technology (Nift) -Mumbaia Master of Design 2016-2018 a dinga Yuryangla Muilung thesis ziek ‘Documentation and Promotion of Tribal Head Gears and Head Dresses of Manipur” a chun Japan rama inthoka USA chena tribal community hai bakah Manipur le a se vel rama cheng, abikin Naga-hai tonlairang le vakiria chi hrang hrang an siem dan a sui a. Chu taka khom chun puon ti zawnga fepui tu khom an um nawh. Chuong chu ni siin, ieng leia a dizaintu hin “thangsuopuon” a mi tipek tlat am ning a ta? Chu chu dittawk el loin, hnam invetchilh pawlhai lem chun “Hmar thangsuopuon” an ti kher naw chun seramu an thŭr nawh.
A ieng po khom chu ni sien, rong nga vel inkopa tanhna pakhat chauh thlaka khawng thei thangsuopuon hi mawi ei ti hle khom a ni thei a, sienkhom puonzie thiemna tieng (intricate designs) mita thlirtu chun tanhna 13 laia hmanga khawng thei puonlaisen dam, tanhna 40 lai ngai kokpui-zikziel dam le tanhna 50 bek ngai saipikhup dam le hang tekhi chun an inrilna inthlauzie hang hrilkhi ngaina a um nawh. Thil ei dizain hrim hrim chun symbol ei hmang po poin umzie chieng tak an phur vong a ngai. Kum 1962-a ka dizain HSA Emblem bung tin hin umzie le kawk chieng tak a nei vong leiin a hlu a, tu chen hin lungsi takin ei la hmang pei a nih. Thangsuopuona a ieng khom hin ieng am a kawk, an naw leh ieng aiawa ngir am a na? A hril thei ei um ka ring nawh. A dizaintu dam laia ei lo indon chieng naw kha a poi takzet. Tu hin chu zawna ei indon rawn po leh mithi hnung khing hratah mi ngai nuom el an tih.
Amiruokchu, nuomin nuom naw inla, sukfel ngai ei nei. A hming le inhme lo le inmil lo puon a ni ang hrimin, umzie nei loin ei insuo a, thangsuo chawimawina nekin mithi râlna le tuomna puonin ei inchangtir a, hlutna a nei tlawm tiel tiel a, a khawnghai khomin chuong ang standat chun infân duorin an hung khawng pei. Ei hnam hmelhmang darthlalang a ni tah. Lumnat a um; lung nat a sukzuol. Ieng tin am ei san suok ding? Inhmu khawm ni-a a ieng a khaw ngaituo chîk loa thu khauh tak tak resolution inthlak khum hi a damdawi a ni nawh. Thiemfin ei ti chi hrim hrim, Arts & Crafts hi taksa le lungrila mawina ril hmu theituhai le chu chu hmu thei le them theia hung duong suok dinga lungvar, thiemna le themthiemna inril nei, entirnan Baibulin a hril Bezalal le Oholiab hai ang dam (Ex. 35:30-35), Thiemthainu thlarauin a sung sip hlak hai kutsuok a nih. ‘Thangsuopuon’ ti ni si, nuhmeiin bi-a nuom tawka an voi khum el dam hi a dizaintu ngeiin a hmu hlak a, ieng leia a lo pai nêm el thei am ning a ti aw? Kawkbo dizain a nih ti a hriet chieng leia hieng khopa suosam le hmang pawlawt hi a lo poiti naw am a ni ding maw?
Tlangkawmna
A ieng po khom chu lo ni tah sien, hi thil ka ngaituo changa ka lungrila hung inlang hlak chu hi hi a nih: Jorhat, Calcutta le Allahabad-a lekha a’n chuk lai khan tlangmi, abikin Nagahaiin suong taka an hnam puon an sil a hmu changin a’n hnar a. Chuong anga ama khom Hmar hnama mi a nizie mi dangin an hriet el theina ding puon duong suok nuomna lungril a’n neiitir leia mawi a ti ang taka Hmarhai puon ding le thangsuo chawimawina ding inkop puon hi a hung phuok suok el ni thei dingin ka zeldin hlak. A poi tak chu a dizain le rong a thlanghaiah entir nei sinsiena (symbol) aiawa ngir hmu ding a um naw leiin nunghak hmel thra, thluok bo ang a nih. Hnam aiawa ngir ding thil ei ruohmang chun ei kalchar le inzom tlat thil hmang a ngai; phuokfawm thil ei hmang chun tuipuia saidawium nam phum tum angin, sawt riel loin a hung inlăng nawk el hlak. Phuokfawm thil hi ei hnam chanchina hin a luong lut rawn a, chuonghai chu MIL sabzeka chen a luong lut sa a, lungvar nei thrangtharin an fak nuom ta si naw a, ei buoi ruk a nih. Puon ei hril khom hin a nina ding hlek khom a pai si naw leiin a hming khom hi thlak vat chi a nih. PUONMAWI ti ringot inla khom iem a poi? A mawi tlat si a.
(August 29, 2019; Delhi)
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